WEEK 8
By this age, your puppy can remember which behaviors he is allowed and where and when he is fed. He can even begin house-training and start becoming used to being groomed. He is ready to leave his mother and littermates to go home with you, fully capable of taking his place in the family.
7 weeks old!
1 week to go.
They should be fully weaned but they aren't.
They are getting there.
When awake, they need to be fully supervised.
They are into 'group destruction'.
Eating the bottom of chairs, floor board, their wee pads.
April 6 Day 50
12:30 AWAKE, NURSED (i would recommend replacement milk at home alone)
1:00 ASLEEP
4:30 AWAKE, NURSED
4:45am BREAKFAST - 5 cups for all 9, Peanut Butter Kongs, play, poop
5:45am ASLEEP (2 hours)
7:45am AWAKE (1 hour)
8:45am ASLEEP (.5 hours)
9:15am AWAKE (.5 hours)
10:25am ASLEEP
6:00pm Fed
7:45pm ASLEEP (1.75 hours)
9:30pm AWAKE (.5 hours)
10:00pm ASLEEP (4 hours)
*Used Bitter Apple Spray on the floor boards to get them to stop chewing them!
*Allowed them into the living room - some were apprehensive. Maggie tried to encourage them.
*Willow is my little escape artist. Always figuring out how to escape the puzzle of baby gates and boxes between the kitchen and living room. I've ordered a gate for that entry way.
*Peyton was shy yet again at a showing. Hopefully the couple will still adopt her.
*Eating 3 meals a day until they are 8 weeks old, then moving to 2 meals a day...about 1/2 cup per meal per pup
April 7 Day 51
1:45am AWAKE, nursed, played
3:00am ASLEEP (2hours)
5:15am AWAKE, nursed, ate 4.5 cups, pooped (1.25 hours)
6:30am ASLEEP (1.5 hours)
8:00am AWAKE
*All chairs removed from kitchen - they were chewing the underside.
*I think this has been the roughest time of all. The 9 of them together = 3 unaltered , 1-year old males, who haven't been trained! They get into EVERYTHING, chew EVERYTHING and escape EVERTHING.
*They aren't sleeping through the night. All together, they move furniture! Middle of the night - puppy and barking fest.
*Sharp teeth - bite your toes.
*Sharp claws - rip skin.
*Puppy Stampede!
*Don't understand 'NO' or 'LEAVE IT'
*I'm tired. : (
April 8 Day 52
1:00am AWAKE
Nursed, Kong, Play, Wee, Cry, Escaping - Gate arrives today- Thank Goodness!!!
2:15am ASLEEP
Monday, April 6, 2009
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Pups: Day 43 - 49
Thursday, April 2 (Day 46):
10pm - moved them into the kitchen
11pm - 2 am SLEEP (3 hours)
2am - 3 am AWAKE (1 hour)
3am - 5am SLEEP (2 hours)
5am - 630 am SLEEP (1.5 hours)
Friday, April 3 (Day 47):
6:00pm fed them
6:45pm Maggie nursed them
7:00pm asleep
7:30 had to wake them to move them
8:00 back in the kitchen, play, play, play
8:35 all 9 asleep (5.5 hours)
Saturday, April 4 (Day 48)
2am - woke up because of my dogs (Chance -food bloat)
- Maggie nursed them
6:15am - AWAKE
-puppies woke up on their own
- Maggie nursed them
- fed them 5 cups of food
- play, play, play
- poop on wee pad (still too cold out for me)
-play, play, play
7:45am - ASLEEP (1.5 hours)
9:15am - AWAKE (.75 hours)
-Maggie nursed them
-playtime again
10:00am - ASLEEP (1.5 hours)
11:30am - AWAKE
-Maggie nursed them
-play, play, play
NOON - Lunchtime!
-Neighbors 3 little girls are coming over (noon-130)
-They will feed them 5 cups (the puppies didn't eat it)
-They will give them plenty of socialization!
-Playing with intermittent naps
1:30pm - ASLEEP (1.5 hours)
3:00pm - AWAKE
-playing
-eating some of the lunch placed out for them
-Maggie nursed
3:30pm - ASLEEP (1.5 hours)
5:00pm - AWAKE
- I had to leave to take Chance to the hospital for food bloat.
?
8:00pm AWAKE
-Fed them 5 cups of food with warm water on top
-play, poop
8:45pm
-Maggie nursed
9:00pm ASLEEP (2.5 hours)
11:30pm AWAKE (1.25 hours)
-played hard
-Socrates vomitted
12:40am ASLEEP
Weighed / Dewormed Today-April 4, 2009:
11# 4oz Socrates (red)
10# 2oz Rottie (Alaskan Malamute)
10# 0oz Malik (yellow)
9# 11.8oz Willow (white)
9# 8 oz Griffin / Harley (green)
9# 6.3oz Peyton (pink ribbon, black girl)
8# 10.5oz Phoenix (blue ribbon, black boy)
8# 0 oz Lizzie (pink ribbon, yellow girl)
7# 8oz Aspen (blue ribbon, yellow boy)
*Today, noticed some of their urine looked 'pink' or dark yellow. I am worried they are not drinking enough water. Apparently so is Maggie. She has been licking their privates, just like when they were days old. She must sense something is wrong or is smelling something.
Sunday, April 5 (Day 49)
Today is the day the puppies should be totally weaned from Mom. I talked to our vet. He said as long as Mom wants to nurse, allow her to do so. Let nature rule.
12:40am ASLEEP (~2 hours)
3:45am AWAKE (1 hour)
-Maggie nursed for 15 minutes
-They played for another 45 mintues
4:45am ASLEEP (1.75 hours)
6:30am AWAKE (1 hour)
-Maggie nursing
-Food: 5 cups dry for puppies
-play and poop
7:30am ASLEEP (1.25 hours)
8:45am AWAKE (.25 hours)
- Maggie nursed
9:00am ASLEEP (2.5 hours)
11:30am AWAKE (1 hour)
-Maggie nursed them
-Provided more dry food to them
-Poop, Pee, Play
12:30pm ASLEEP (2 hours)
2:30pm AWAKE (1 hour)
3:30pm ASLEEP
.
.
.
3:30pm ASLEEP
10pm - moved them into the kitchen
11pm - 2 am SLEEP (3 hours)
2am - 3 am AWAKE (1 hour)
3am - 5am SLEEP (2 hours)
5am - 630 am SLEEP (1.5 hours)
Friday, April 3 (Day 47):
6:00pm fed them
6:45pm Maggie nursed them
7:00pm asleep
7:30 had to wake them to move them
8:00 back in the kitchen, play, play, play
8:35 all 9 asleep (5.5 hours)
Saturday, April 4 (Day 48)
2am - woke up because of my dogs (Chance -food bloat)
- Maggie nursed them
6:15am - AWAKE
-puppies woke up on their own
- Maggie nursed them
- fed them 5 cups of food
- play, play, play
- poop on wee pad (still too cold out for me)
-play, play, play
7:45am - ASLEEP (1.5 hours)
9:15am - AWAKE (.75 hours)
-Maggie nursed them
-playtime again
10:00am - ASLEEP (1.5 hours)
11:30am - AWAKE
-Maggie nursed them
-play, play, play
NOON - Lunchtime!
-Neighbors 3 little girls are coming over (noon-130)
-They will feed them 5 cups (the puppies didn't eat it)
-They will give them plenty of socialization!
-Playing with intermittent naps
1:30pm - ASLEEP (1.5 hours)
3:00pm - AWAKE
-playing
-eating some of the lunch placed out for them
-Maggie nursed
3:30pm - ASLEEP (1.5 hours)
5:00pm - AWAKE
- I had to leave to take Chance to the hospital for food bloat.
?
8:00pm AWAKE
-Fed them 5 cups of food with warm water on top
-play, poop
8:45pm
-Maggie nursed
9:00pm ASLEEP (2.5 hours)
11:30pm AWAKE (1.25 hours)
-played hard
-Socrates vomitted
12:40am ASLEEP
Weighed / Dewormed Today-April 4, 2009:
11# 4oz Socrates (red)
10# 2oz Rottie (Alaskan Malamute)
10# 0oz Malik (yellow)
9# 11.8oz Willow (white)
9# 8 oz Griffin / Harley (green)
9# 6.3oz Peyton (pink ribbon, black girl)
8# 10.5oz Phoenix (blue ribbon, black boy)
8# 0 oz Lizzie (pink ribbon, yellow girl)
7# 8oz Aspen (blue ribbon, yellow boy)
*Today, noticed some of their urine looked 'pink' or dark yellow. I am worried they are not drinking enough water. Apparently so is Maggie. She has been licking their privates, just like when they were days old. She must sense something is wrong or is smelling something.
Sunday, April 5 (Day 49)
Today is the day the puppies should be totally weaned from Mom. I talked to our vet. He said as long as Mom wants to nurse, allow her to do so. Let nature rule.
12:40am ASLEEP (~2 hours)
3:45am AWAKE (1 hour)
-Maggie nursed for 15 minutes
-They played for another 45 mintues
4:45am ASLEEP (1.75 hours)
6:30am AWAKE (1 hour)
-Maggie nursing
-Food: 5 cups dry for puppies
-play and poop
7:30am ASLEEP (1.25 hours)
8:45am AWAKE (.25 hours)
- Maggie nursed
9:00am ASLEEP (2.5 hours)
11:30am AWAKE (1 hour)
-Maggie nursed them
-Provided more dry food to them
-Poop, Pee, Play
12:30pm ASLEEP (2 hours)
2:30pm AWAKE (1 hour)
3:30pm ASLEEP
.
.
.
3:30pm ASLEEP
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Pups: Day 36-42
WEEKS 6 & 7
At this point, the puppy's muzzle will lengthen and he'll begin to look more like the adults of his breed. His emotions will become apparent, too: He'll whine to show fear, whimper when hurt and bark when he's excited or wants attention.
The mother's role evolves to that of pack leader as her brood matures. Her pups are weaned now, since they have teeth and can eat solid food. She is affectionate and playful with them, teasing them with toys and showing them when to bite and when not to. She lets them know she's the dominant dog and corrects them sharply if they misbehave.
Your puppy's appetite for exploring his environment and learning new things will benefit tremendously if he is given a variety of simple toys to investigate at this stage. He will also play rough and tumble with his littermates, stealing and sharing toys. By this point, he should be spending a short time each day alone with a human, playing gently and learning to relate one-on-one in a safe, trusting situation.
March 25, 2009 (38 days old)
WEANING PROGRESS:
*Maggie is still offering herself freely for nursing
*Pups are now on free feed dry Eukanuba Premium Puppy Lamb and Rice (I didn't like the fact that on Science Diet Dry that their food wasn't fully digested - very stinky poop, and they are starting to scratch. ) IF this doesn't work, I'll dry Innova Large Breed Puppy
*Replacement Milk - I prepare 4 cups water / 2 cups replacement milk once a day (evening time) to help Maggie out. I think today will be the last day.
DEWORMED (New Schedule: Weeks 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10)
Deworming #3 - dewormed Maggie and the pups
NAIL CLIPPING
I can no longer clip their nails by myself. I will need help holding them.
CHANGE FROM RIBBONS AROUND NECK to COLLARS
Need to put collars on their necks and start acclimating them to a leash
PLAY / TOYS
Now have 2 puppy crates. Will get that set up soon.
Also want to set up ramps / stairs for them to practice their coordination and acclimate them to these environment.
There is a blizzard headed our way, so I don't think I'll get them outside for a few days.
WEIGHTS (weights in parens is their last weigh in weight):
Socrates, BM: 7# 6.4oz (4# 1.6oz) Red Ribbon
Raudy, BM: 6# 13.3oz (3# 15.9oz) - was 'Rottie'
Malik, BM: 6# 9.4oz (3# 8.8oz) Yellow Ribbon
Griffin, BM: 6# 9.1oz (3# 11.6oz) Green Ribbon
Willow, BF: 6# 8.2oz (3# 14.3oz) White Ribbon
Phoenix, BM: 5# 14oz(3# 9.6 oz) Blue Ribbon
Peyton, BF: ______ (3# 2.4 oz) Pink Ribbon
Lizzie, YF: 5# 5.5oz (3# 0.7oz) Pink & Lavendar Ribbon
Aspen, YM: 5# 5oz (2# 15.8oz) Blue Ribbon
At this point, the puppy's muzzle will lengthen and he'll begin to look more like the adults of his breed. His emotions will become apparent, too: He'll whine to show fear, whimper when hurt and bark when he's excited or wants attention.
The mother's role evolves to that of pack leader as her brood matures. Her pups are weaned now, since they have teeth and can eat solid food. She is affectionate and playful with them, teasing them with toys and showing them when to bite and when not to. She lets them know she's the dominant dog and corrects them sharply if they misbehave.
Your puppy's appetite for exploring his environment and learning new things will benefit tremendously if he is given a variety of simple toys to investigate at this stage. He will also play rough and tumble with his littermates, stealing and sharing toys. By this point, he should be spending a short time each day alone with a human, playing gently and learning to relate one-on-one in a safe, trusting situation.
March 25, 2009 (38 days old)
WEANING PROGRESS:
*Maggie is still offering herself freely for nursing
*Pups are now on free feed dry Eukanuba Premium Puppy Lamb and Rice (I didn't like the fact that on Science Diet Dry that their food wasn't fully digested - very stinky poop, and they are starting to scratch. ) IF this doesn't work, I'll dry Innova Large Breed Puppy
*Replacement Milk - I prepare 4 cups water / 2 cups replacement milk once a day (evening time) to help Maggie out. I think today will be the last day.
DEWORMED (New Schedule: Weeks 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10)
Deworming #3 - dewormed Maggie and the pups
NAIL CLIPPING
I can no longer clip their nails by myself. I will need help holding them.
CHANGE FROM RIBBONS AROUND NECK to COLLARS
Need to put collars on their necks and start acclimating them to a leash
PLAY / TOYS
Now have 2 puppy crates. Will get that set up soon.
Also want to set up ramps / stairs for them to practice their coordination and acclimate them to these environment.
There is a blizzard headed our way, so I don't think I'll get them outside for a few days.
WEIGHTS (weights in parens is their last weigh in weight):
Socrates, BM: 7# 6.4oz (4# 1.6oz) Red Ribbon
Raudy, BM: 6# 13.3oz (3# 15.9oz) - was 'Rottie'
Malik, BM: 6# 9.4oz (3# 8.8oz) Yellow Ribbon
Griffin, BM: 6# 9.1oz (3# 11.6oz) Green Ribbon
Willow, BF: 6# 8.2oz (3# 14.3oz) White Ribbon
Phoenix, BM: 5# 14oz(3# 9.6 oz) Blue Ribbon
Peyton, BF: ______ (3# 2.4 oz) Pink Ribbon
Lizzie, YF: 5# 5.5oz (3# 0.7oz) Pink & Lavendar Ribbon
Aspen, YM: 5# 5oz (2# 15.8oz) Blue Ribbon
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Pups: Day 29-35
4 WEEKS OLD - Half Way There!
March 16, 2009 (28 days old)
WEANING PROGRESS:
*Lots of visible, sharp teeth in their mouths
*Eating ~ 12 ounces of wet Puppy Food per meal (3 times a day)
*Still nursing from Maggie
*Replacement Milk - still using for smaller puppies - laps it from a saucer (Aspen)
*I have ordered a Stainless Steel Puppy Feeding Pan
*Maggie is staying out of the Puppy Room more and more
DEWORMED (New Schedule: Weeks 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10)
Deworming #2 - dewormed Maggie and the pups
CLIPPED NAILS
CHECKED RIBBONS AROUND NECK (to make sure not too tight)
TOYS
Starting to play with 'plastic' toys now. Before now, enjoyed only cloth toys. Building block with bell inside and 4 legged 'camel cloth' toy.
PHYSICAL COORDINATION
Playing hard, pouncing, biting on each other's ears to the point they 'scream'
EYES
Some of their eyes are getting rid of the 'blue' glaze
POTTY TRAINING
Doing great. They are pottying the majority of the time on the wee pads, which are held in a 'wee tray'. I have removed all cloth (sheets) from their play area. They now walk on rubber playpen flooring, and they don't pee or poop (majority of the time) on it.
I would like to work on CRATE training this week.
OUTSIDE WORLD
* I have begun taking the more confident ones into different areas of the house, and into the yard (always in my arms)...Socrates, Willow, Rottie, Peyton, Lizzie, Malik
* I am taking the shy ones and holding them more, in my arms, while sitting in the TV room....Aspen, Griffin
* Phoenix seems a little aloof and very rough (something to prove) with his litter mates. I need to work with him on being more loving.
Socrates, BM: 4# 1.6oz (3# 0.3oz) Red Ribbon
Willow, BF: 3# 14.3oz (3# 0oz) White Ribbon
Griffin, BM: 3# 11.6oz (2# 15.oz) Green Ribbon
Rottie, BM: 3# 15.9oz (2# 13.7oz)
Malik, BM: 3# 8.8oz (2# 10.8oz) Yellow Ribbon
Phoenix, BM: 3# 9.6 oz (2# 10.2oz) Blue Ribbon
Peyton, BF: 3# 2.4 oz (2# 7oz) Pink Ribbon
Aspen, YM: 2# 15.8oz (2# 4.3oz) Blue Ribbon
Lizzie, YF: 3# 0.7oz (2# 1.7oz) Pink & Lavendar Ribbon
March 21, 2009 (33 days old)
*Bought a 15" Puppy Litter Feeding pan (picture to be inserted soon!)
*I need to buy the smaller one as well for their water bowl
*8 am: Today I put 2 cups of puppy food - dry with 2 cups of water in the blender and fed that to them - let's see what happens to their stools! I am trying to stop the canned puppy food - very expensive!
*No more Milk Replacement / Evaporated Milk after 35 days - should move to all water (per another litter mom). Someone suggested I buy evaporated milk by the case from Costco / Sam's. Less expensive than canned replacement milk - and quicker than making the milk from powder. Wish I had known about the evap milk thing 3 weeks ago.
*Figured out that 'Mr. Rottie' is really 'Mr. Malamute!'
*We are scheduling appointments for showings next weekend - when they are 6 weeks old. They won't go home to their new families until they are 8 weeks old, but we want to have them (the new families) prepared by then!
*For future rescued litters: From Costco / Sam's, buy cases of: Bleach, Clothes Washing Detergent, Baby Wipes (to wipe off the mats - Clorox wipes too strong for puppies), Paper Towels (to clean up the mats), Evaporated Milk (instead of Puppy Replacement milk)
At this stage:
*Exercise Pen - in a separate room from people - to avoid 'separation anxiety' later in life - don't want them too dependent on people; learn to comfort themselves; this way we all sleep more too! When the puppies see /hear /smell you, they wake up.
*Floor Mats - their 'running' area' - no pee / poop allowed here!
*Dog Bed with mattress protector pad and flannel
*Using the tray from one of my extra large dog kennels as their 'Play area' - no peep / poo allowed in here!
*Wee pads and Wee tray - recommend getting the large wee pads that fit the tray because the pups are in the 'chewing' the edges of the paper stage
*Toys - Baby Einstein cloth / multi tactile play blocks (the pups love them!)
*Puppy Feeding Dish
*FOOD: At 35 days, no more milk, they should be eating blended puppy dry food with water; By 5 1/2 weeks, they will drink noticeably less from Mom. When Mom is totally done, feed them 4 times a day. By 6 weeks, they should be on moistened kibble only, and eating 3 times a day (6am, 2pm, 7pm).
*Baby Wet Wipes & Paper Towels - to clean the floor
*Classical Music playing nonstop
*Maggie is not correcting the pups from too rough of play (As she should), so I am intervening from time to time
*Some people would put the pups on grass /gravel at this point - I'm not willing to risk them getting sick, so this isn't happening yet!
*Trying to touch, hold, talk to each pup several times a day - harder than I thought - loving on 9 pups! How the heck is Octomom going to do it??
*Still have to figure out a new puppy habitat that involves a crate for them to sleep in - start 'crate' training.
*Noticed more 'humping' of each other happening - dominance ordering starting!
*Spend all their time eating, playing, sleeping and pooping. Developing appropriate "social skills," such as learning how to send and receive signals, what an "inhibited bite" means, how far to go in play wrestling and so forth. Play is important to help puppies increase their physical coordination, social skills and learning limits. Interacting with their mother and littermates helps them learn "how to be a dog" and is also a way to explore ranking ("who's in charge"). When 2 pups fight, Mom should knock them over and start cleaning them. That lets them know who is truly boss.
*Had visitors on 2 different days this week. Les on one day and Emily on another day. They gave attention to Maggie first for a good 15 minutes, then entered the Puppy Room. Maggie barked at them at first but they ignored her. They sat down with the puppies and then Maggie came over and put her head on their shoulders! Maggie has been an overprotective (with people) mama so far. Finally think I am breaking her of this!
*Introduced the pups to my pack - Chance (male 4yo) can care less. Gracie (female 3 yo, top dog) is such a good 'foster' mom to them. Myah (blind female 12 mo old pup) sniffed them and walked off. The puppies licked the faces of my pack - weren't fearful at all. Maggie was in the room - and was okay with me holding the pups / sitting on the couch / letting the other dogs sniff her pups. Such a good mama dog - teaching them to be independent!
* NEXT WEEK
>New Environments - Combine eating with new experiences (kitchen , playpen outside, etc.) Positive reinforcement. Add ramps, steps inside the play pen.
>Toys - add Kongs (for mental stimulation), Nylabones (for chewing). Rotate the toys so some are 'new'.
>Crate - put 2 in at a time; feed them in there; hopefully they'll nap in there; then move to feeding alone in the crate; then let out
>Grooming - Start touching their ears (to desensitize them for future vet visits / ear cleanings)
>Real collars and leashes
March 22, 2009 (34 days old)
2am - Need I say more?
Some of the puppies (noticed Griffin so far) are having diarrhea. So I'm going back to the known stable state (replacement milk, canned puppy food) before proceeding with trying solid food again (mushed with water in a blender).
I gave them Replacement Milk tonight (2 cups boiled water, 1 cup Replacement Milk Formula) - cooled down to just above room temperature. Towards the end of drinking this, Maggie jumps into the ex pen and offers herself for nursing (while she laps up the remained milk in the food bowl). It's okay for Maggie to drink this milk because she still needs calcium supplementation as long as she is nursing.
Speaking of calcium supplementation, we noticed today that Maggie was eating dirt and mud today. I called our vet and asked if she was looking for a nutrient. He said it's quite possible that she was looking for calcium. I realized I had stopped giving her a couple of tablespoons of plain yogurt a day. He told me to give her a Tums (2-3 times a day). It's a calcium supplement. I didn't realize that! We gave her one earlier tonight (8pm or so).
After Maggie cleaned up their milk left overs and nursed them, she gobbled up the canned adult food that I offered to her. She then jumped back into the ex pen to nurse again! I guess that Tums really helped her out. Maybe she senses her puppies' tummy aches and knows they need more milk from her right now.
So, tomorrow off to the store again: Yogurt for Maggie, more milk replacement, more canned puppy food.
I want their stools to get back to a solid state. Any time there is diarrhea, I worry about the start of Parvo. I am pretty sure tonight's diarrhea is from the food change, but I want to confirm that by getting back on the canned for at least 24 hours.
10am - Talked to our vet
He said to go back to canned puppy food. Get their stools normal.
After that, then over 3 to 5 days, mix the canned food with crushed dry (and water in the blender) gradually decreasing the percentage of canned food. LESSON LEARNED - doesn't matter if it's the same company / type of food - if it's canned vs dry - that's a food change that can cause dietary indescretion. Just like switching brands - must do it gradually!
OR he said I could continue the dry / water mix only for 24 to 48 hours, enduring the diarrhea. Uhhh..no thanks!
6pm - Lots of 1st today
*Neighbors came by with 4 little girls - we all sat on the kitchen floor with the puppies. This was the puppies' first time in the kitchen (wooden floors) visiting with 7 people at once, with Mama Maggie outside. The pups loved being held by the little girls and being rocked to sleep.
*Gave the puppies their first 'chewable' nylabones. Socrates was one of the first to figure it out.
*Made a flannel tug-of-war puppy toy. Played with Malik. He figured it out fast.
*The puppies were roaming outside their ex pen and found one of Maggie's dry dog food kibble and started munching on it. So...I put about 16 dry Puppy Food kibble in the ex-pen. Each puppy chewed on one - like a chew bone. They took their time and crunched on it. I guess giving it to them as treats is a good way to gradually move them over. : )
March 16, 2009 (28 days old)
WEANING PROGRESS:
*Lots of visible, sharp teeth in their mouths
*Eating ~ 12 ounces of wet Puppy Food per meal (3 times a day)
*Still nursing from Maggie
*Replacement Milk - still using for smaller puppies - laps it from a saucer (Aspen)
*I have ordered a Stainless Steel Puppy Feeding Pan
*Maggie is staying out of the Puppy Room more and more
DEWORMED (New Schedule: Weeks 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10)
Deworming #2 - dewormed Maggie and the pups
CLIPPED NAILS
CHECKED RIBBONS AROUND NECK (to make sure not too tight)
TOYS
Starting to play with 'plastic' toys now. Before now, enjoyed only cloth toys. Building block with bell inside and 4 legged 'camel cloth' toy.
PHYSICAL COORDINATION
Playing hard, pouncing, biting on each other's ears to the point they 'scream'
EYES
Some of their eyes are getting rid of the 'blue' glaze
POTTY TRAINING
Doing great. They are pottying the majority of the time on the wee pads, which are held in a 'wee tray'. I have removed all cloth (sheets) from their play area. They now walk on rubber playpen flooring, and they don't pee or poop (majority of the time) on it.
I would like to work on CRATE training this week.
OUTSIDE WORLD
* I have begun taking the more confident ones into different areas of the house, and into the yard (always in my arms)...Socrates, Willow, Rottie, Peyton, Lizzie, Malik
* I am taking the shy ones and holding them more, in my arms, while sitting in the TV room....Aspen, Griffin
* Phoenix seems a little aloof and very rough (something to prove) with his litter mates. I need to work with him on being more loving.
Socrates, BM: 4# 1.6oz (3# 0.3oz) Red Ribbon
Willow, BF: 3# 14.3oz (3# 0oz) White Ribbon
Griffin, BM: 3# 11.6oz (2# 15.oz) Green Ribbon
Rottie, BM: 3# 15.9oz (2# 13.7oz)
Malik, BM: 3# 8.8oz (2# 10.8oz) Yellow Ribbon
Phoenix, BM: 3# 9.6 oz (2# 10.2oz) Blue Ribbon
Peyton, BF: 3# 2.4 oz (2# 7oz) Pink Ribbon
Aspen, YM: 2# 15.8oz (2# 4.3oz) Blue Ribbon
Lizzie, YF: 3# 0.7oz (2# 1.7oz) Pink & Lavendar Ribbon
March 21, 2009 (33 days old)
*Bought a 15" Puppy Litter Feeding pan (picture to be inserted soon!)
*I need to buy the smaller one as well for their water bowl
*8 am: Today I put 2 cups of puppy food - dry with 2 cups of water in the blender and fed that to them - let's see what happens to their stools! I am trying to stop the canned puppy food - very expensive!
*No more Milk Replacement / Evaporated Milk after 35 days - should move to all water (per another litter mom). Someone suggested I buy evaporated milk by the case from Costco / Sam's. Less expensive than canned replacement milk - and quicker than making the milk from powder. Wish I had known about the evap milk thing 3 weeks ago.
*Figured out that 'Mr. Rottie' is really 'Mr. Malamute!'
*We are scheduling appointments for showings next weekend - when they are 6 weeks old. They won't go home to their new families until they are 8 weeks old, but we want to have them (the new families) prepared by then!
*For future rescued litters: From Costco / Sam's, buy cases of: Bleach, Clothes Washing Detergent, Baby Wipes (to wipe off the mats - Clorox wipes too strong for puppies), Paper Towels (to clean up the mats), Evaporated Milk (instead of Puppy Replacement milk)
At this stage:
*Exercise Pen - in a separate room from people - to avoid 'separation anxiety' later in life - don't want them too dependent on people; learn to comfort themselves; this way we all sleep more too! When the puppies see /hear /smell you, they wake up.
*Floor Mats - their 'running' area' - no pee / poop allowed here!
*Dog Bed with mattress protector pad and flannel
*Using the tray from one of my extra large dog kennels as their 'Play area' - no peep / poo allowed in here!
*Wee pads and Wee tray - recommend getting the large wee pads that fit the tray because the pups are in the 'chewing' the edges of the paper stage
*Toys - Baby Einstein cloth / multi tactile play blocks (the pups love them!)
*Puppy Feeding Dish
*FOOD: At 35 days, no more milk, they should be eating blended puppy dry food with water; By 5 1/2 weeks, they will drink noticeably less from Mom. When Mom is totally done, feed them 4 times a day. By 6 weeks, they should be on moistened kibble only, and eating 3 times a day (6am, 2pm, 7pm).
*Baby Wet Wipes & Paper Towels - to clean the floor
*Classical Music playing nonstop
*Maggie is not correcting the pups from too rough of play (As she should), so I am intervening from time to time
*Some people would put the pups on grass /gravel at this point - I'm not willing to risk them getting sick, so this isn't happening yet!
*Trying to touch, hold, talk to each pup several times a day - harder than I thought - loving on 9 pups! How the heck is Octomom going to do it??
*Still have to figure out a new puppy habitat that involves a crate for them to sleep in - start 'crate' training.
*Noticed more 'humping' of each other happening - dominance ordering starting!
*Spend all their time eating, playing, sleeping and pooping. Developing appropriate "social skills," such as learning how to send and receive signals, what an "inhibited bite" means, how far to go in play wrestling and so forth. Play is important to help puppies increase their physical coordination, social skills and learning limits. Interacting with their mother and littermates helps them learn "how to be a dog" and is also a way to explore ranking ("who's in charge"). When 2 pups fight, Mom should knock them over and start cleaning them. That lets them know who is truly boss.
*Had visitors on 2 different days this week. Les on one day and Emily on another day. They gave attention to Maggie first for a good 15 minutes, then entered the Puppy Room. Maggie barked at them at first but they ignored her. They sat down with the puppies and then Maggie came over and put her head on their shoulders! Maggie has been an overprotective (with people) mama so far. Finally think I am breaking her of this!
*Introduced the pups to my pack - Chance (male 4yo) can care less. Gracie (female 3 yo, top dog) is such a good 'foster' mom to them. Myah (blind female 12 mo old pup) sniffed them and walked off. The puppies licked the faces of my pack - weren't fearful at all. Maggie was in the room - and was okay with me holding the pups / sitting on the couch / letting the other dogs sniff her pups. Such a good mama dog - teaching them to be independent!
* NEXT WEEK
>New Environments - Combine eating with new experiences (kitchen , playpen outside, etc.) Positive reinforcement. Add ramps, steps inside the play pen.
>Toys - add Kongs (for mental stimulation), Nylabones (for chewing). Rotate the toys so some are 'new'.
>Crate - put 2 in at a time; feed them in there; hopefully they'll nap in there; then move to feeding alone in the crate; then let out
>Grooming - Start touching their ears (to desensitize them for future vet visits / ear cleanings)
>Real collars and leashes
March 22, 2009 (34 days old)
2am - Need I say more?
Some of the puppies (noticed Griffin so far) are having diarrhea. So I'm going back to the known stable state (replacement milk, canned puppy food) before proceeding with trying solid food again (mushed with water in a blender).
I gave them Replacement Milk tonight (2 cups boiled water, 1 cup Replacement Milk Formula) - cooled down to just above room temperature. Towards the end of drinking this, Maggie jumps into the ex pen and offers herself for nursing (while she laps up the remained milk in the food bowl). It's okay for Maggie to drink this milk because she still needs calcium supplementation as long as she is nursing.
Speaking of calcium supplementation, we noticed today that Maggie was eating dirt and mud today. I called our vet and asked if she was looking for a nutrient. He said it's quite possible that she was looking for calcium. I realized I had stopped giving her a couple of tablespoons of plain yogurt a day. He told me to give her a Tums (2-3 times a day). It's a calcium supplement. I didn't realize that! We gave her one earlier tonight (8pm or so).
After Maggie cleaned up their milk left overs and nursed them, she gobbled up the canned adult food that I offered to her. She then jumped back into the ex pen to nurse again! I guess that Tums really helped her out. Maybe she senses her puppies' tummy aches and knows they need more milk from her right now.
So, tomorrow off to the store again: Yogurt for Maggie, more milk replacement, more canned puppy food.
I want their stools to get back to a solid state. Any time there is diarrhea, I worry about the start of Parvo. I am pretty sure tonight's diarrhea is from the food change, but I want to confirm that by getting back on the canned for at least 24 hours.
10am - Talked to our vet
He said to go back to canned puppy food. Get their stools normal.
After that, then over 3 to 5 days, mix the canned food with crushed dry (and water in the blender) gradually decreasing the percentage of canned food. LESSON LEARNED - doesn't matter if it's the same company / type of food - if it's canned vs dry - that's a food change that can cause dietary indescretion. Just like switching brands - must do it gradually!
OR he said I could continue the dry / water mix only for 24 to 48 hours, enduring the diarrhea. Uhhh..no thanks!
6pm - Lots of 1st today
*Neighbors came by with 4 little girls - we all sat on the kitchen floor with the puppies. This was the puppies' first time in the kitchen (wooden floors) visiting with 7 people at once, with Mama Maggie outside. The pups loved being held by the little girls and being rocked to sleep.
*Gave the puppies their first 'chewable' nylabones. Socrates was one of the first to figure it out.
*Made a flannel tug-of-war puppy toy. Played with Malik. He figured it out fast.
*The puppies were roaming outside their ex pen and found one of Maggie's dry dog food kibble and started munching on it. So...I put about 16 dry Puppy Food kibble in the ex-pen. Each puppy chewed on one - like a chew bone. They took their time and crunched on it. I guess giving it to them as treats is a good way to gradually move them over. : )
Sunday, March 8, 2009
Pups: Day 22-28
WEEKS 4 and 5:
Quickly gaining strength and coordination, the puppy begins to respond to his environment. He can bark, stand, walk, run, even pounce. His mother teaches him to eliminate away from his sleeping area.
He learns to play by wrestling with his littermates. When he's nipped too hard or is batted back by a defensive sibling, he learns the difference between hard and soft biting. At this point, puppies are forever testing their limits and take turns sleeping at the top and bottom of the sibling pile. Hunting and chasing instincts kick in, so this is a good time to introduce your pup to toys.
The mother dog referees when playtime gets too rough. She may nudge or restrain an errant pup, or she may growl at him, teaching the puppy discipline and acclimating him to the process of training. If they're not properly socialized, orphaned dogs raised without a mother and littermates may have a hard time relating to their human leaders, and to other dogs, as well.
Toward the end of this period, it's time for the caretaker's family to become more involved with the young dog. This familiarizes him with the everyday smells and sounds of a modern household, including appliances, children and assorted adults. Since he's cutting his first teeth, his mother begins to wean him. She might chew her food and then regurgitate it for her puppies to eat.
***
WEANING:
About 3 weeks after birth, mom begins evading puppies and discouraging nursing. The puppies naturally begin to show a decline in the length of time they nurse. More of their time is spent exploring their new world.
It is time to start offering food for the puppies to sample. Increased gentle human handling can improve the puppy's physical and social development, and make them more accepting of people.
At 21 days, begin offering food (canned, semi-moist or even dry puppy food moistened with water) to the puppies. Some people use cookie sheets and let the puppies learn. It will be a big mess at first.
Offer the food several times a day, for 30 minutes at a time. When they seem no longer interested, take away food and clean them up. Mom should be outside, taking a break, while they try to learn to eat on their own.
Weaning should progress slowly to reduce incidence of anxiety ad mammary gland inflammation in the mother.
Several times a day, remove the babies for 1 to 2 hours at a time. Food should only be offered for short period of times but keeping puppies separate from mom can encourage natural weaning.
By the time of 8 weeks of age, puppies should be eating solid food and no longer nursing.
March 9, 2009 (21 days old)
Nursing / Food Schedule:
Midnight
2am - Found Rottie OUTSIDE the pool! - he finally succeeded at climbing out) (2 hours)
6am -Found ALL puppies except 4 small ones, outside the pool nursing on Maggie!) (4 hours)
After nursing they were still screaming, so I fed them canned Puppy Food
1 small can Puppy Food (Science Diet Savory Chicken)
10am - Still Sleeping! (I'm thinking Food is the answer to having them sleep through the
night!!!)
11am - Nursed (they made it 5 hours!)
3pm - Nursed (4 hours)
6pm - Nursed (3 hours)
930pm - Nursed & Fed 1 can puppy food (3.5 hours)
*GOAL = Feed at 11pm and they sleep until 6am
3# 0.3oz - Black M, Red Ribbon (.3cc)
3# 0.0oz - Black F, White Ribbon (.3cc)
2# 15.0oz - Black M, Green Ribbon (.3cc)
2# 13.7oz - Rottie M (.3cc)
2# 10.8oz - Black M, Yellow Ribbon (.3cc)
2# 10.2oz - Black M, Blue Ribbon (.3cc)
2# 7.0oz - Black F, Pink Ribbon (.25cc)
2# 4.3oz - YM (.2cc)
2# 1.7oz - YF (.2cc)
57# Mom (6cc)
(2) CLIPPED NAILS
(3) CHECKED RIBBONS AROUND NECK (to make sure not too tight)
(4) ADDED TOYS TO THEIR AREA
The pups interacted with their dogs, especially Einstein (Black M, Red Ribbon).
(5) 1st FEEDING - WEANING BEGINS!
Science Diet Savory Chicken Canned Puppy Food (small can)
I put puppy food onto a tray, inside the pool. The puppies had a field day! There was zero hesitation. They ate right away. I found that they immediately slept longer and didn't require nursing from Mom as soon as they had been. I guess the food has filled those little tummies. TIP: Offer food 3 times a day, 30 minutes at a time.
First Meal!
(6) REPLACEMENT MILK - Finally all the puppies can lap the milk from a saucer. TIP - Boil water in a 2 cup measuring cup in the microwave. Place milk into plastic bottle (1 or 2 tablespoons). Place bottle into measuring cup that has hot water to get it to warmer than room temperature. Pour into saucer. Let puppies lap it up. TIP - the Powdered Replacement Milk is much less expensive than the prepared formula in cans. I only use Replacement Milk when the puppies are screaming at the top of their lungs for Mom and she refuses to nurse them.
(7) HABITAT CHANGE - Since the majority climbed out of the pool last night, I have removed the pool, and set up the Exercise Pen. I put Mom's dog bed inside the ex pen area, and the puppies have claimed it! They LOVE sleeping on it.
March 11, 2009 (23 days old)
Nursing / Feeding Schedule:
I am feeding 5.8 ounce can of Puppy Food in the am and the pm. (Science Diet Savory Chicken for Puppies). I place the food on a dinner plate, mix in a little bit of water, then spread it on the edges of the plate. The puppies love it. I then let Mom into the ex-pen and let her clean up!
I am providing a can of Replacement Milk once a day. I pour it onto a dinner plate and let them lick up! Again, I let Mom in at the end to clean up the puppies and the mess!
Mom is still eating 9 cups dry and 3 cans adult dog food a day. Still has discharge.
During the day, the pups want Mom about every 2 to 4 hours. When they cry, I put Mom into the ex pen with the pups. At night (10pm - 6am) Mom is in the ex-pen with the pups, and doesn't have access to get out. We are finally sleeping all the way through the night!!! No more 2am, 4am wake up calls from the pups and begging Mom to get in the pool with them. Mom doesn't have a choice but to nurse them! Wish I had figured this out sooner!!!
6am: Let Mom out of the ex-pen. She eats her breakfast and takes a potty break. At the same time, I put down a plate of food for the pups in the ex-pen. Then I let Mom back into the ex-pen to 'clean up' and begin nursing the pups. While she nurses, I clean out the linens in the ex-pen.
830am: I go into the ex-pen and sit. Mom is on the outside of the pen. The puppies swarm me and I spend quality one-on-one time with them, making sure to pick up, pet and love on each one. Back to sleep they go.
March 13, 2009 (25 days old)
Diet: Puppies are getting 3 - 4 cans of puppy food a day. Mom still eating 9 cups dry, 3 cups wet. Puppies still nursing from Mom. I haven't provided 'water in bowl' to puppies just yet. I am still trying to find a puppy pan that they can't swim in or spill!
Medical: All their teeth showed up this week! Mom is standing or sitting up to nurse.
Behavior: Lots of puppy 'fighting'. Also a few 'fear' responses when they are startled (I am surprised - I thought they were in the 'fearless' state). I have set up my Ipod speakers in the Puppy Room and I am playing classical music nonstop. That's my contribution to helping them excel neurologically since I didn't do the Neuro Super Stimulation excercises from Day 1 to 17. Oops.
Laundry: Using 3 quarts of bleach & a bottle of laundry detergent a week! Waiting for the exercise pen flooring to arrive today. I am hoping that cuts down on the number of loads I am doing every day!
Quickly gaining strength and coordination, the puppy begins to respond to his environment. He can bark, stand, walk, run, even pounce. His mother teaches him to eliminate away from his sleeping area.
He learns to play by wrestling with his littermates. When he's nipped too hard or is batted back by a defensive sibling, he learns the difference between hard and soft biting. At this point, puppies are forever testing their limits and take turns sleeping at the top and bottom of the sibling pile. Hunting and chasing instincts kick in, so this is a good time to introduce your pup to toys.
The mother dog referees when playtime gets too rough. She may nudge or restrain an errant pup, or she may growl at him, teaching the puppy discipline and acclimating him to the process of training. If they're not properly socialized, orphaned dogs raised without a mother and littermates may have a hard time relating to their human leaders, and to other dogs, as well.
Toward the end of this period, it's time for the caretaker's family to become more involved with the young dog. This familiarizes him with the everyday smells and sounds of a modern household, including appliances, children and assorted adults. Since he's cutting his first teeth, his mother begins to wean him. She might chew her food and then regurgitate it for her puppies to eat.
***
WEANING:
About 3 weeks after birth, mom begins evading puppies and discouraging nursing. The puppies naturally begin to show a decline in the length of time they nurse. More of their time is spent exploring their new world.
It is time to start offering food for the puppies to sample. Increased gentle human handling can improve the puppy's physical and social development, and make them more accepting of people.
At 21 days, begin offering food (canned, semi-moist or even dry puppy food moistened with water) to the puppies. Some people use cookie sheets and let the puppies learn. It will be a big mess at first.
Offer the food several times a day, for 30 minutes at a time. When they seem no longer interested, take away food and clean them up. Mom should be outside, taking a break, while they try to learn to eat on their own.
Weaning should progress slowly to reduce incidence of anxiety ad mammary gland inflammation in the mother.
Several times a day, remove the babies for 1 to 2 hours at a time. Food should only be offered for short period of times but keeping puppies separate from mom can encourage natural weaning.
By the time of 8 weeks of age, puppies should be eating solid food and no longer nursing.
March 9, 2009 (21 days old)
Nursing / Food Schedule:
Midnight
2am - Found Rottie OUTSIDE the pool! - he finally succeeded at climbing out) (2 hours)
6am -Found ALL puppies except 4 small ones, outside the pool nursing on Maggie!) (4 hours)
After nursing they were still screaming, so I fed them canned Puppy Food
1 small can Puppy Food (Science Diet Savory Chicken)
10am - Still Sleeping! (I'm thinking Food is the answer to having them sleep through the
night!!!)
11am - Nursed (they made it 5 hours!)
3pm - Nursed (4 hours)
6pm - Nursed (3 hours)
930pm - Nursed & Fed 1 can puppy food (3.5 hours)
*GOAL = Feed at 11pm and they sleep until 6am
(1) DEWORMED (New Schedule: Weeks 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10)
Although deworming should start at 14 days old, I held off until 21 days old since they were so low in weight (mom gave birth being underweight herself).
-Parasites can be acquired at birth. Many puppies are born with intestinal parasites (usually roundworms) that have been passed from the mother, where the parasite was in an encysted, quiet state.
Today dewormed all puppies & Mom. 1cc (or 1ml) per 10 pounds of pup / Mom's weight:3# 0.3oz - Black M, Red Ribbon (.3cc)
3# 0.0oz - Black F, White Ribbon (.3cc)
2# 15.0oz - Black M, Green Ribbon (.3cc)
2# 13.7oz - Rottie M (.3cc)
2# 10.8oz - Black M, Yellow Ribbon (.3cc)
2# 10.2oz - Black M, Blue Ribbon (.3cc)
2# 7.0oz - Black F, Pink Ribbon (.25cc)
2# 4.3oz - YM (.2cc)
2# 1.7oz - YF (.2cc)
57# Mom (6cc)
(2) CLIPPED NAILS
(3) CHECKED RIBBONS AROUND NECK (to make sure not too tight)
(4) ADDED TOYS TO THEIR AREA
The pups interacted with their dogs, especially Einstein (Black M, Red Ribbon).
(5) 1st FEEDING - WEANING BEGINS!
Science Diet Savory Chicken Canned Puppy Food (small can)
I put puppy food onto a tray, inside the pool. The puppies had a field day! There was zero hesitation. They ate right away. I found that they immediately slept longer and didn't require nursing from Mom as soon as they had been. I guess the food has filled those little tummies. TIP: Offer food 3 times a day, 30 minutes at a time.
First Meal!
(6) REPLACEMENT MILK - Finally all the puppies can lap the milk from a saucer. TIP - Boil water in a 2 cup measuring cup in the microwave. Place milk into plastic bottle (1 or 2 tablespoons). Place bottle into measuring cup that has hot water to get it to warmer than room temperature. Pour into saucer. Let puppies lap it up. TIP - the Powdered Replacement Milk is much less expensive than the prepared formula in cans. I only use Replacement Milk when the puppies are screaming at the top of their lungs for Mom and she refuses to nurse them.
(7) HABITAT CHANGE - Since the majority climbed out of the pool last night, I have removed the pool, and set up the Exercise Pen. I put Mom's dog bed inside the ex pen area, and the puppies have claimed it! They LOVE sleeping on it.
March 11, 2009 (23 days old)
Nursing / Feeding Schedule:
I am feeding 5.8 ounce can of Puppy Food in the am and the pm. (Science Diet Savory Chicken for Puppies). I place the food on a dinner plate, mix in a little bit of water, then spread it on the edges of the plate. The puppies love it. I then let Mom into the ex-pen and let her clean up!
I am providing a can of Replacement Milk once a day. I pour it onto a dinner plate and let them lick up! Again, I let Mom in at the end to clean up the puppies and the mess!
Mom is still eating 9 cups dry and 3 cans adult dog food a day. Still has discharge.
During the day, the pups want Mom about every 2 to 4 hours. When they cry, I put Mom into the ex pen with the pups. At night (10pm - 6am) Mom is in the ex-pen with the pups, and doesn't have access to get out. We are finally sleeping all the way through the night!!! No more 2am, 4am wake up calls from the pups and begging Mom to get in the pool with them. Mom doesn't have a choice but to nurse them! Wish I had figured this out sooner!!!
6am: Let Mom out of the ex-pen. She eats her breakfast and takes a potty break. At the same time, I put down a plate of food for the pups in the ex-pen. Then I let Mom back into the ex-pen to 'clean up' and begin nursing the pups. While she nurses, I clean out the linens in the ex-pen.
830am: I go into the ex-pen and sit. Mom is on the outside of the pen. The puppies swarm me and I spend quality one-on-one time with them, making sure to pick up, pet and love on each one. Back to sleep they go.
March 13, 2009 (25 days old)
Diet: Puppies are getting 3 - 4 cans of puppy food a day. Mom still eating 9 cups dry, 3 cups wet. Puppies still nursing from Mom. I haven't provided 'water in bowl' to puppies just yet. I am still trying to find a puppy pan that they can't swim in or spill!
Medical: All their teeth showed up this week! Mom is standing or sitting up to nurse.
Behavior: Lots of puppy 'fighting'. Also a few 'fear' responses when they are startled (I am surprised - I thought they were in the 'fearless' state). I have set up my Ipod speakers in the Puppy Room and I am playing classical music nonstop. That's my contribution to helping them excel neurologically since I didn't do the Neuro Super Stimulation excercises from Day 1 to 17. Oops.
Laundry: Using 3 quarts of bleach & a bottle of laundry detergent a week! Waiting for the exercise pen flooring to arrive today. I am hoping that cuts down on the number of loads I am doing every day!
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Pups: Day 15-21
WEEK 3
PUPPIES ARE NOW 2 WEEKS OLD!!!
They are no longer Neonates!
Days 14 - 21 is considered the Transitional Stage
They will move from being completely helpless, driven solely by instinct, cocooned in darkness and silence, and incapable of learning to becoming increasingly aware of themselves, their littermates, and their surroundings via their improving sight, their new ability to hear (when their ears unseal sometime this week), and their growing ability to move around on their own.
Over the next seven days, if they haven't already, the pups will:
*hone their motor skills (walking, sitting, standing, moving forward, moving backward, etc.)
*begin to develop usable vision
*begin to urinate and defecate on their own
*have their first teeny teeth will begin to emerge
*start lapping liquids
*have their ears unseal and they'll start to hear (we'll see startle responses to noise)
*learn to use their voices more specifically and deliberately
*start showing interest in their littermates
*have their Mom naturally spend less and less time with them
*have their paw pads & noses turn from pink to black
*sniff deliberately using their noses while they walk
*be up on their feet and taking tentative steps or more
*begin climbing
*still nurse and snuggle with mom
*straighten tails and wag them appropriately
*chew on their litter mates
*be big enough to be left alone with mom overnight. They are big enough to squirm out from under her or scream at the top of their lungs
We will:
*increase giving one on one attention to the pups (human socialization)
*add safe toys and visually-stimulating objects to the whelping box
*introduce new surfaces to their feet (one minute only, once per day). They've already been on fleece, plastic and cotton in the whelping box; next we'll add paper, linoleum, carpet, rubber mat, hardwood, tile covered concrete,, and doggy beds (soft, fabric covered pillows).
*work at the table in the puppy room and answering the phone there so the puppies have activity around them.
*be careful about super loud, sudden sounds this week (like the vacuum cleaner), but will continue normal noise-making activity like usual (doing dishes, running the dishwasher, running water, putting dishes away, listening to the TV quietly, etc.)
*continue holding the pups and clipping their toenails and petting and cradling them.
*****
During the third week, your puppy's senses open up. He can detect light, dark and movement and begins to respond to sudden or loud sounds. As he paws and mouths his littermates, he builds early social skills. He can relieve himself on his own now. Although he is not ready to wean, you might want to introduce him to a taste of veterinarian-prescribed puppy gruel. By the end of the week, your puppy can crawl; his tail begins to wag.
Senses
-Pups are born blind with their eyelids sealed shut. By the time they are 2 weeks old, the eyelids are open and the puppy begins developing their vision.
-Pups are also born deaf with sealed ear canals. By the age of 17 days, the ear canals are open and the pups begins to hear. By 25 days of age, puppies respond to sights and sounds.
Elimination
-Puppies are unable to voluntarily eliminate urine and feces, and their mother must lick the genital area, stimulating elimination. By 23 days of age, the pups are able to eliminate without help.
Walking
-Puppies start out life squirming and 'swimming' across the floor.
-By 16 days of age, pups begin the rudimentary first steps of walking.
Eating
-By the time a puppy is 4 to 6 weeks of age, he can start eating solid food and can be safely weaned around 8 weeks of age.
Teething
-As the pups begin eating solid food at 4 to 6 weeks of age, the first teeth begin to erupt. The canine teeth usually erupt at 3 to 4 weeks of age and the incisors erupt at 4 to 6 weeks. The baby premolars also erupt at 4 to 6 weeks of age.
-These first teeth are temporary and are soon replaced by permanent teeth. The front teeth, incisors, are replaced with permanent teeth around 3 to 5 months of age.
***
THINGS TO EXPECT THIS WEEK:
*Teeth will begin to erupt
*Puppies will stand up and start walking
*Puppies will begin to lap liquids
*Puppies will defecate / urinate without stimulation
*Start becoming aware of their environment
*Start playing with littermates
*Puppies will start to discriminate as to where to relieve themselves
Puppy Toddlers
(3 - 6 Weeks)
During the Toddler period, puppies emerge on their own from the litter. They venture into the surrounding environment. This emergence from the litter is a gradual and continual learning experience. During this stage of development puppies learn basic behavioral patterns specific to dogs. While playing, they practice different body postures, learning what the postures mean and how they affect their mother and litter mates.
They learn what it is like to bite and be bitten, what barking and other vocalizations mean and how to make and use them to establish social relationships with other dogs. Such learning and activity tempers their own biting and vocalizing.
From the age of five weeks, the mother teaches her puppies basic manners. They learn to be submissive to her leadership and what behaviors are acceptable. If necessary, she growls, snarls, or snaps at them as a form of discipline. When weaning the litter, for instance, the mother will discipline her puppies so that they will leave her alone. Because the mother disciplines them in a way that they clearly understand, after a few repetitions, the puppies will respond to a mere glare from her.
If a pup has not learned to accept leadership (and discipline) in its early interactions with dogs, its training will be more difficult. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early tend to be nervous, more prone to barking and biting, and less responsive to discipline. Often they are aggressive with other dogs.
Generally speaking, a puppy taken away from it's mother and litter mates before seven weeks of age, may not realize its full potential as a dog and companion. To maximize the mental and psychological development of puppies, they must remain in the nest with their mother and litter mates until seven weeks of age.
--------------------------------
March 3, 2009 (Day 15)
-Clipped nails (with cuticle cutters - can use nail clippers)
-Put rick rack ribbon 'collars' on them, although the vets recommend not doing this until they are older
-Consider: Dewormer #1 for Puppies (and Mom) (Schedule: 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10 weeks of age) against Roundworms (**I chose to wait to start in week 3)
-Puppies are trying to get out of the whelping box but shouldn't be allowed out until the puppies are 28 days old, as they can't produce their own antibodies until after they are 28 days old.
*Puppies are very awake today! They are trying to walk. They are 'talking' more and they are urinating and trying to defecate without stimulation. Today is the first day to get rid of the sheets in the whelping box and move to wee pads and the washable bed protector pad.
*Mom is cutting back on cleaning up after her puppies. She is ignoring their pee puddles completely. Instead of twice a day, I am cleaning the whelping box four times daily.
March 4, 2009 (Day 16)
*Puppies are interacting with their littermates. Yellow girl is 'cleaning' the other pups.
*Mom is still having discharge. Still eating 9 cups dry, 3 cans wet, 2 tblspn plain yogurt.
Doesn't care to stay in the puppy room. Likes to stay in the rest of the house, then it occurs to her to head back to the puppy room and whelping box.
*All eyes are open. Still trying to walk. Ears are still sealed.
*Nursing about once an hour, for 15 minutes at a time
*I tried to give them Milk Replacement. I started with a syringe, then I just poured it into the palm of my hand and most began lappin. They would have nothing to do with lapping out of a shallow plate.
March 5, 2009 (Day 17)
RECAP:
*Eyes are all open, paw pads and noses have all turned black
*Walking, sitting, standing, and trying to climb out of the pool (but they aren’t allowed out of the pool until they are 28 days to keep them healthy)
*Making eye contact – so cute
*’Talking’ a lot
*Urinating without Mom having to stimulate them and Mom isn’t cleaning up the urine as much, so potty training has begun!
*Starting to learn to “lap” liquids. I’ve put replacement milk in the palm of my hand and they lapped from it yesterday. I am trying to move them to a puppy dish from which to lap. I’m getting ready for next week – the start of weaning
*Ears are unsealing – I haven’t seen them respond to loud noises yet; I have seen them scratching at their ears (very good at balancing themselves!)
*Showing lots of interest in their littermates / ‘chewing’ on each other
*I was able to clip their nails this week without much problem. As I held them, they gave me puppy kisses
*They love being handled now. The first few times I touched them, they would scream. Then they would scream when I picked them up. Now they hush up when I pick them up.
*They are nursing about once an hour for 15 minutes. When they aren’t nursing, Mom sleeps on the outside of the pool.
*Mom is still eating 9 cups of dry food + 3 cans of wet + 2 tablespoons of yogurt + some chicken / rice AND she’s still underweight!
*I find the puppies small as compared to other Lab litters about the same age, but they are gaining weight consistently, and seem happy and healthy (mentally and physically)
*I put rick-rack ribbons on them as collars
TODAY
*Woke up with a 5am feeding. More like 5:30am. The puppies were screaming. Mom wouldn't go into the whelping box because the linens were pretty soaked with urine - probably from the overnight feedings. I usually clean out the box every 4 hours except for overnight. I put in fresh linens and Mom nursed them all.
*Pink Ribbon Yellow Girl - started scratching her ears with her back paw. So cute. I'm guessing this means the ears are making real progress with becoming unsealed.
Weights:
2# 13.1 oz - White Ribbon, Black Female
2# 12.5 oz - Green Ribbon, Black Male
1# 13.7 oz - Pink Ribbon, Yellow Female
2# 13.7 oz - Red Ribbon, Black Male
2# 1.9 oz - Blue Ribbon, Yellow Male
2# 7.7 oz - Yellow Ribbon, Black Male
2# 10.5 oz - Tan and Black Tan Male
2# 3.9oz - Pink Ribbon, Black Female
2# 6.3oz - Blue Ribbon, Black Male
*I need to watch the Pink Ribbon, Yellow Female. She's gained the least this past week, and she's still the tiniest.
*Talked to our Puppy Behaviorist about how to begin POTTY TRAINING (since Mom is no longer cleaning up urine). Here is her suggestion:
A suggestion from someone:
*Any puppy that weighs 20 or more percent less than its litter mates is best raised by hand.
Bottle Feeding:I mix my milk formula just before I use it. A good puppy-nursing bottle holds 2-4 ounces of formula. They are generally sold without holes punched in the nipple. I use a flame-heated needle to melt two small holes in the latex cap. The holes should only be big enough for a few drops of milk drip out when the bottle is vigorously shaken. If too many holes are punched in the cap the puppies tend to inhale the formula rather than ingest it.
If too few or too small a hole is made the puppy will ingest too much air. Mix the formula well so there are no clumps. Let it cool until it is slightly above room temperature. Always feed pups while they are resting on their stomachs. Never feed them upright or upside down as you would a human infant. Gently insert the nipple into the pup’s mouth using a prying motion while you apply pressure to the sides of the bottle to release a drop or two of milk. From then on the pup should suck on its own.
We all have a tendency to over feed puppies. It is much safer to give them a little less than they desire. Over-feeding can lead to pneumonia when milk is inhaled into the lungs rather then swallowed into the stomach. It can also cause diarrhea. It is much safer to feed smaller amounts more frequently than larger amounts less frequently. If milk bubbles out of the pup’s nose it is flowing too rapidly from the bottle. This is usually due to too large a hole(s) in the nipple or over feeding.
I microwave a bowl of water and set the bottle in it to heat the formula to 99-100 degrees Fahrenheit before use.
Some owners find it easier to feed very small newborn pups from a one or three milliliter syringe and switch to a bottle when the pup is two weeks old.
Boil nursing bottles and syringes between every use.
How Often To Feed:
Feed very young puppies every three or four hours or six to eight feeding a day. Some people get up to give their puppy a midnight feeding but this is not necessary. By the time the puppy is three weeks old, four feedings per day are quite sufficient. At five weeks of age the puppy should be eating some solid foods. At this age feed it two to three times a day if at all. Puppies that are hungry and need feeding will cry continuously, move their heads from side to side and suckle on each other and on objects in the nest box.
PUPPIES ARE NOW 2 WEEKS OLD!!!
They are no longer Neonates!
Days 14 - 21 is considered the Transitional Stage
They will move from being completely helpless, driven solely by instinct, cocooned in darkness and silence, and incapable of learning to becoming increasingly aware of themselves, their littermates, and their surroundings via their improving sight, their new ability to hear (when their ears unseal sometime this week), and their growing ability to move around on their own.
Over the next seven days, if they haven't already, the pups will:
*hone their motor skills (walking, sitting, standing, moving forward, moving backward, etc.)
*begin to develop usable vision
*begin to urinate and defecate on their own
*have their first teeny teeth will begin to emerge
*start lapping liquids
*have their ears unseal and they'll start to hear (we'll see startle responses to noise)
*learn to use their voices more specifically and deliberately
*start showing interest in their littermates
*have their Mom naturally spend less and less time with them
*have their paw pads & noses turn from pink to black
*sniff deliberately using their noses while they walk
*be up on their feet and taking tentative steps or more
*begin climbing
*still nurse and snuggle with mom
*straighten tails and wag them appropriately
*chew on their litter mates
*be big enough to be left alone with mom overnight. They are big enough to squirm out from under her or scream at the top of their lungs
We will:
*increase giving one on one attention to the pups (human socialization)
*add safe toys and visually-stimulating objects to the whelping box
*introduce new surfaces to their feet (one minute only, once per day). They've already been on fleece, plastic and cotton in the whelping box; next we'll add paper, linoleum, carpet, rubber mat, hardwood, tile covered concrete,, and doggy beds (soft, fabric covered pillows).
*work at the table in the puppy room and answering the phone there so the puppies have activity around them.
*be careful about super loud, sudden sounds this week (like the vacuum cleaner), but will continue normal noise-making activity like usual (doing dishes, running the dishwasher, running water, putting dishes away, listening to the TV quietly, etc.)
*continue holding the pups and clipping their toenails and petting and cradling them.
*****
During the third week, your puppy's senses open up. He can detect light, dark and movement and begins to respond to sudden or loud sounds. As he paws and mouths his littermates, he builds early social skills. He can relieve himself on his own now. Although he is not ready to wean, you might want to introduce him to a taste of veterinarian-prescribed puppy gruel. By the end of the week, your puppy can crawl; his tail begins to wag.
Senses
-Pups are born blind with their eyelids sealed shut. By the time they are 2 weeks old, the eyelids are open and the puppy begins developing their vision.
-Pups are also born deaf with sealed ear canals. By the age of 17 days, the ear canals are open and the pups begins to hear. By 25 days of age, puppies respond to sights and sounds.
Elimination
-Puppies are unable to voluntarily eliminate urine and feces, and their mother must lick the genital area, stimulating elimination. By 23 days of age, the pups are able to eliminate without help.
Walking
-Puppies start out life squirming and 'swimming' across the floor.
-By 16 days of age, pups begin the rudimentary first steps of walking.
Eating
-By the time a puppy is 4 to 6 weeks of age, he can start eating solid food and can be safely weaned around 8 weeks of age.
Teething
-As the pups begin eating solid food at 4 to 6 weeks of age, the first teeth begin to erupt. The canine teeth usually erupt at 3 to 4 weeks of age and the incisors erupt at 4 to 6 weeks. The baby premolars also erupt at 4 to 6 weeks of age.
-These first teeth are temporary and are soon replaced by permanent teeth. The front teeth, incisors, are replaced with permanent teeth around 3 to 5 months of age.
***
THINGS TO EXPECT THIS WEEK:
*Teeth will begin to erupt
*Puppies will stand up and start walking
*Puppies will begin to lap liquids
*Puppies will defecate / urinate without stimulation
*Start becoming aware of their environment
*Start playing with littermates
*Puppies will start to discriminate as to where to relieve themselves
Puppy Toddlers
(3 - 6 Weeks)
During the Toddler period, puppies emerge on their own from the litter. They venture into the surrounding environment. This emergence from the litter is a gradual and continual learning experience. During this stage of development puppies learn basic behavioral patterns specific to dogs. While playing, they practice different body postures, learning what the postures mean and how they affect their mother and litter mates.
They learn what it is like to bite and be bitten, what barking and other vocalizations mean and how to make and use them to establish social relationships with other dogs. Such learning and activity tempers their own biting and vocalizing.
From the age of five weeks, the mother teaches her puppies basic manners. They learn to be submissive to her leadership and what behaviors are acceptable. If necessary, she growls, snarls, or snaps at them as a form of discipline. When weaning the litter, for instance, the mother will discipline her puppies so that they will leave her alone. Because the mother disciplines them in a way that they clearly understand, after a few repetitions, the puppies will respond to a mere glare from her.
If a pup has not learned to accept leadership (and discipline) in its early interactions with dogs, its training will be more difficult. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early tend to be nervous, more prone to barking and biting, and less responsive to discipline. Often they are aggressive with other dogs.
Generally speaking, a puppy taken away from it's mother and litter mates before seven weeks of age, may not realize its full potential as a dog and companion. To maximize the mental and psychological development of puppies, they must remain in the nest with their mother and litter mates until seven weeks of age.
--------------------------------
March 3, 2009 (Day 15)
-Clipped nails (with cuticle cutters - can use nail clippers)
-Put rick rack ribbon 'collars' on them, although the vets recommend not doing this until they are older
-Consider: Dewormer #1 for Puppies (and Mom) (Schedule: 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10 weeks of age) against Roundworms (**I chose to wait to start in week 3)
-Puppies are trying to get out of the whelping box but shouldn't be allowed out until the puppies are 28 days old, as they can't produce their own antibodies until after they are 28 days old.
*Puppies are very awake today! They are trying to walk. They are 'talking' more and they are urinating and trying to defecate without stimulation. Today is the first day to get rid of the sheets in the whelping box and move to wee pads and the washable bed protector pad.
*Mom is cutting back on cleaning up after her puppies. She is ignoring their pee puddles completely. Instead of twice a day, I am cleaning the whelping box four times daily.
March 4, 2009 (Day 16)
*Puppies are interacting with their littermates. Yellow girl is 'cleaning' the other pups.
*Mom is still having discharge. Still eating 9 cups dry, 3 cans wet, 2 tblspn plain yogurt.
Doesn't care to stay in the puppy room. Likes to stay in the rest of the house, then it occurs to her to head back to the puppy room and whelping box.
*All eyes are open. Still trying to walk. Ears are still sealed.
*Nursing about once an hour, for 15 minutes at a time
*I tried to give them Milk Replacement. I started with a syringe, then I just poured it into the palm of my hand and most began lappin. They would have nothing to do with lapping out of a shallow plate.
March 5, 2009 (Day 17)
RECAP:
*Eyes are all open, paw pads and noses have all turned black
*Walking, sitting, standing, and trying to climb out of the pool (but they aren’t allowed out of the pool until they are 28 days to keep them healthy)
*Making eye contact – so cute
*’Talking’ a lot
*Urinating without Mom having to stimulate them and Mom isn’t cleaning up the urine as much, so potty training has begun!
*Starting to learn to “lap” liquids. I’ve put replacement milk in the palm of my hand and they lapped from it yesterday. I am trying to move them to a puppy dish from which to lap. I’m getting ready for next week – the start of weaning
*Ears are unsealing – I haven’t seen them respond to loud noises yet; I have seen them scratching at their ears (very good at balancing themselves!)
*Showing lots of interest in their littermates / ‘chewing’ on each other
*I was able to clip their nails this week without much problem. As I held them, they gave me puppy kisses
*They love being handled now. The first few times I touched them, they would scream. Then they would scream when I picked them up. Now they hush up when I pick them up.
*They are nursing about once an hour for 15 minutes. When they aren’t nursing, Mom sleeps on the outside of the pool.
*Mom is still eating 9 cups of dry food + 3 cans of wet + 2 tablespoons of yogurt + some chicken / rice AND she’s still underweight!
*I find the puppies small as compared to other Lab litters about the same age, but they are gaining weight consistently, and seem happy and healthy (mentally and physically)
*I put rick-rack ribbons on them as collars
TODAY
*Woke up with a 5am feeding. More like 5:30am. The puppies were screaming. Mom wouldn't go into the whelping box because the linens were pretty soaked with urine - probably from the overnight feedings. I usually clean out the box every 4 hours except for overnight. I put in fresh linens and Mom nursed them all.
*Pink Ribbon Yellow Girl - started scratching her ears with her back paw. So cute. I'm guessing this means the ears are making real progress with becoming unsealed.
Weights:
2# 13.1 oz - White Ribbon, Black Female
2# 12.5 oz - Green Ribbon, Black Male
1# 13.7 oz - Pink Ribbon, Yellow Female
2# 13.7 oz - Red Ribbon, Black Male
2# 1.9 oz - Blue Ribbon, Yellow Male
2# 7.7 oz - Yellow Ribbon, Black Male
2# 10.5 oz - Tan and Black Tan Male
2# 3.9oz - Pink Ribbon, Black Female
2# 6.3oz - Blue Ribbon, Black Male
*I need to watch the Pink Ribbon, Yellow Female. She's gained the least this past week, and she's still the tiniest.
*Talked to our Puppy Behaviorist about how to begin POTTY TRAINING (since Mom is no longer cleaning up urine). Here is her suggestion:
- Figure out the farthest "corner" of the whelping box (kiddy swimming pool), away from where they're sleeping, to put the piddle pads.
- Pick them up, immediately after feeding and place them on it.
- After one or two have pottyed there, the smell will draw them over to it, above any attractant the pads have on their own.
- If they're eating on any kind of a schedule, you should be able to predict about how long after the eat they'll need to eliminate. A minute or two, 30 seconds?
- Since they're not on solid food yet, the fluid milk goes through them pretty fast.
- Once they get out of the box you can begin some crate training.
March 7 2009 (Day 19)
I'm still working on trying to figure out the best way for potty training. This litter likes to urinate as soon as they wake up. After they nurse, Mom is taking care of that part. So, as soon as I hear one cry, I try to get those that haven't figured it out yet, over to the half of the whelping box that has the Wee pads. Some actually do deliberately walk to the 'potty area' of the whelping box.I have the pool (60" kid's swimming pool) mentally split in half. One half has the 'Sleeping / Nursing' area and the other half has the 'Potty' area.
The 'Sleeping / Nursing' area: I put the washable mattress protector sheet (one side cloth, other side plastic to catch the urine before it hits the bottom of the pool) down first. On top of that I put fleece sheets so the puppies aren't sleeping directly on wee accidents. I change the fleece out as needed. I change out the protector sheet every 12 hours. Everything is still being washed with regular detergent and Bleach (3/4 cup per load) in hot water, and an additional hot rinse given.
The 'Potty' area: I put down 2 Wee pads. After the pups wee on these a bit, I put the small white terry cloth towels (used at whelping) on top of the pee spots. I am trying to cover the spots so Mom doesn't try to 'lick up' the smell, yet I want to leave some pee smell so the pups know where to go. I am using the terry cloths here because I am trying to give the pups a different tactile feel for their potty area - and the closest thing I can think of to grass. So, the pups are never allowed to sleep on terry cloth or the wee pads. These surfaces should be distinctive to them for weeing. I change out the Wee pads every 24 hours, and pick up the terry cloths whenever I see they have been soiled.
March 8 2009 (Day 20)
5am feeding - Yellow girl / pink ribbon / first born still not eating enough. I've tried to start BOTTLE FEEDING. Mostly ended up putting the replacement milk into the palm of my hand and let her lap it up. I think I got almost 1 tablespoon into her.
A suggestion from someone:
*Any puppy that weighs 20 or more percent less than its litter mates is best raised by hand.
Bottle Feeding:I mix my milk formula just before I use it. A good puppy-nursing bottle holds 2-4 ounces of formula. They are generally sold without holes punched in the nipple. I use a flame-heated needle to melt two small holes in the latex cap. The holes should only be big enough for a few drops of milk drip out when the bottle is vigorously shaken. If too many holes are punched in the cap the puppies tend to inhale the formula rather than ingest it.
If too few or too small a hole is made the puppy will ingest too much air. Mix the formula well so there are no clumps. Let it cool until it is slightly above room temperature. Always feed pups while they are resting on their stomachs. Never feed them upright or upside down as you would a human infant. Gently insert the nipple into the pup’s mouth using a prying motion while you apply pressure to the sides of the bottle to release a drop or two of milk. From then on the pup should suck on its own.
We all have a tendency to over feed puppies. It is much safer to give them a little less than they desire. Over-feeding can lead to pneumonia when milk is inhaled into the lungs rather then swallowed into the stomach. It can also cause diarrhea. It is much safer to feed smaller amounts more frequently than larger amounts less frequently. If milk bubbles out of the pup’s nose it is flowing too rapidly from the bottle. This is usually due to too large a hole(s) in the nipple or over feeding.
I microwave a bowl of water and set the bottle in it to heat the formula to 99-100 degrees Fahrenheit before use.
Some owners find it easier to feed very small newborn pups from a one or three milliliter syringe and switch to a bottle when the pup is two weeks old.
Boil nursing bottles and syringes between every use.
How Often To Feed:
Feed very young puppies every three or four hours or six to eight feeding a day. Some people get up to give their puppy a midnight feeding but this is not necessary. By the time the puppy is three weeks old, four feedings per day are quite sufficient. At five weeks of age the puppy should be eating some solid foods. At this age feed it two to three times a day if at all. Puppies that are hungry and need feeding will cry continuously, move their heads from side to side and suckle on each other and on objects in the nest box.
What To Feed:
I prefer to feed puppies a powdered infant formula that I prepares just before use. Two excellent ones that are available are Esbilac marketed by Pet Ag, which is available at veterinary offices and pet stores and Hartz Advanced Care Puppy Milk Replacement powder available at WalMart Stores. Mix both according to the directions on the label (two parts boiled water to one part powder). Store the opened canister in the freezer. Allow some time after mixing a batch for bubbles to leave the formula. Keep reconstituted formula in the refrigerator between uses and discard any remaining formula at the end of the day.
Burping The Puppy:
After each feeding hold the puppy upright with its tummy against your shoulder and pat it gently until it burps releasing trapped air. Nursing bottles that do not release enough milk lead to more air being trapped. If the puppy should bloat or become colicky add a few drops of infant anticolic medicine (simethicone, Equate Infants’ Gas Relief, WalMart Stores Inc.) to the formula.
Helping Your Puppy Eliminate:
Normal puppy stools are yellowish brown with a jam-like consistency. After every feeding, gently massage the anus and urinary orifice with a cotton ball or Kleenex moistened with warm water until they urinate and defecate. Be very gentle when you do this and don’t worry if no urine or stool is produced after every feeding. By the time the pup is three weeks old it should be able to go without your help.
Problems That Can Arise:
If diarrhea occurs add more water to the formula to make up for the fluid that is lost. If this does not rapidly cure the problem the pup may need to be placed on antibiotics and receive subcutaneous fluids. Watery yellowish or greenish stools are sometimes associated with feeding too much. If they occur, try diluting the formula 50-50 with Pedialyte until the stools return to normal consistency. You can also give the pup 2-3 drops of kaopectate just prior to each feeding.
Newborn puppies quickly become dehydrated if they are not nursing. They can also become dehydrated if their environment is too hot and dry. Two indicators of dehydration are loss of elasticity of the skin (the skin stays tented when gently pinched up) and decreased saliva production (the gums and tongue feel tacky or dry).
Hypoglycemia or low blood sugar can develop rapidly in a puppy that is not nursing. These puppies are limp, depressed and weak. Their gums are often bluish and their muscles may twitch. Dextrose solution or corn syrup placed on their tongue is sometimes helpful but it is better if these pups are left in an intensive care setting at a veterinary center where dextrose can be administered intravenously or intralingually (in the tongue).
Because newborn puppies can not regulate their temperature well they are quite susceptible to chilling. If this should occur the best way to warm them is to place them on a hot water bottle and gently blow them with a hair drier.
Stools that are clumped and cheese-like can be due to feeding the formula too concentrated. When puppies strain to defecate and pass overly hard stools, increase the frequency of feeding and dilute the formula. Impacted pups also have bloated abdomens. You can give them a few drops of mineral oil or cat hairball ointment to help them evacuate the stool. If they still remain bound up they may need a warm water enema. This is best done at a veterinary hospital.
Bathing Puppies:
During their first week of life it is best to just clean puppies with a damp pledget of cotton. When the puppy is one week old its body can be submersed in warm water. When the bath is finished carefully blow dry the puppy. Be careful to keep the dryer far away from the puppy so as not to overheat it.
Weaning – You Are Almost There!
Between 3 and 4 weeks, puppies should begin accepting fine textured solid foods. By 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 weeks the puppy should be weaned. Purchase some cans of gourmet cat or dog food in chicken and beef flavors and smear a bit on the roof of the puppy’s mouth. It will soon get the idea.
Do not feed it fish flavored foods or it will become a fussy eater. This is the same time you should begin to offer formula in a bowl. The earlier puppies eat on their own the better. I do not suggest baby foods because they are too low in calcium and vitamins. Although many puppies will eat as early as four weeks, some take an additional two or three weeks before they express interest in solid food. As soon as puppy chow is offered, keep a dish of water available. By the time the pup is 10 weeks old it should be receiving puppy chow dry.
Parvo Information
PUPPIES CANNOT BE FULLY PROTECTED AGAINST PARVO UNTIL THEY ARE AT LEAST 20 WEEKS OLD.
In my rescue work, I have seen many cases of Parvo. I think one of the biggest mistakes that people make is taking puppies, who are not fully vaccinated, to public places. The next biggest mistake is not understanding the vaccine protocol.
I constantly see sweet little innocent puppies on the floors of Pet Stores and Vet Hospitals and worry. Although you can vaccinate for Parvo before 12 weeks of age, puppies are not protected against the Parvo virus until they are at least 20 weeks old.
For a Parvo vaccine to be effective:
+12 weeks of age: Vaccinate
+16 weeks of age: Booster
+20 weeks of age: Parvo vaccine fully absorbed and effective
The immunities the pups receive from their mother's colostrum actually interferes with the effectiveness of the Parvo vaccine given before 12 weeks of age.
The recommendation now is to limit a pup's exposure to unknown or under vaccinated dogs (or to places traveled by unknown or under vaccinated dogs) until the pup is over 20 weeks old. It is why many respectable doggie daycares will not accept dogs under 20 weeks of age.
Parvo can be found just about anywhere. It can be found at pet stores, public parks, walking trails, sidewalks and your neighbor's yard. It can be transferred from yard to yard by utility company meter readers, postal workers, or neighborhood kids. It can also come in on car tires and delivery vehicle tires.
Most often Parvo enters your home on people's shoes.
Before handling our puppies, I ask that everyone wash their hands. I wash linens used in the Puppy Room daily in bleach and a double rinse. I ask everyone to leave their shoes at the entry way into the Puppy Room.
Since I work in rescue, I step into a pan of bleach water before entering my home or backyard and wash my Rescue Tennis Shoes often in bleach.
Parvovirus (Parvoviral Enteritis or "Parvo," for short) is a virus causing severe infection in puppies and dogs.
It invades and destroys rapidly growing cells in the intestine, bone marrow and lymphoid tissue resulting in nausea, vomiting and severe hemorrhagic (bloody) diarrhea. The invasion of the bone marrow cells causes a decrease in the white blood cell count leading to increased susceptibility to bacterial infections and sometimes to a shock-like condition called endotoxemia. The disease can vary from mild to fatal if not properly treated.
Parvovirus is extremely contagious to other dogs. Infection is generally attributed to ingestion of material contaminated by dog feces and can occur when a dog smells or licks the ground. Direct contact with another dog is not necessary for infection. Parvovirus is shed in the feces of infected dogs for approximately two weeks after initial ingestion and can live in the environment for years. The virus is species specific and is not contagious to cat or humans.
Dogs at highest risk for infection are unvaccinated puppies or those who have not yet completed their vaccine series. It is most common in dogs less than 8 months old. Especially susceptible breeds include Doberman pinschers, Rottweilers, German shepherd, Staffordshire terriers, Black Labrador Retrievers, and dachshunds. Dogs of all ages can be infected, but puppies and younger dogs are most susceptible. Intact male dogs may also be susceptible for unknown reasons.
Unsanitary and/or overcrowded kennels may increase chance of infection and concurrent infection with parasites, other bacteria or viruses may also increase susceptibility to infection. Proper vaccination of your pet can best prevent the disease. Parvovirus is an acute and serious disease, not a chronic condition. Virtually all cases need proper diagnosis and hospitalization. If your pet is having active symptoms, it is important to see your veterinarian. Parvovirus can be fatal if not properly treated.
What to Watch For
Clinical signs generally are seen 3 to 14 days after exposure to the virus.
Signs may include:
+Depression
+Fever
+Loss of appetite (anorexia)
+Vomiting
+Diarrhea (often containing foul-smelling blood)
Diagnosis
Diagnosis is usually based on clinical signs. Diagnostic tests are needed to recognize parvovirus, and exclude other diseases.
Tests may include:
+Complete medical history and physical examination
+Testing the feces for the presence of the virus
+Blood tests and abdominal X-rays to determine the severity of the infection or exclude other causes of the symptoms
Preventative Care
Keep your dog away from fecal waste of other dogs when walking along neighborhood streets or parks.
If your dog leaves his own "deposit" be sure to remove it and dispose of it at home.You should also minimize contact of unvaccinated puppies with other dogs that may be sick or unvaccinated.
This should include avoiding areas where other sick pets may have been (parvo can live in the environment for 2 years). Your pet is most at risk until fully vaccinated (usually 20 to 24 weeks of age).
The virus is extremely resistant to many disinfectants. The recommendation for cleaning areas possibly contaminated with parvovirus include diluted bleach (diluted to 1 part bleach to 20 parts water) and quaternary ammonium disinfectants (such as Roccal-D, Parvosol, and others).
In my rescue work, I have seen many cases of Parvo. I think one of the biggest mistakes that people make is taking puppies, who are not fully vaccinated, to public places. The next biggest mistake is not understanding the vaccine protocol.
I constantly see sweet little innocent puppies on the floors of Pet Stores and Vet Hospitals and worry. Although you can vaccinate for Parvo before 12 weeks of age, puppies are not protected against the Parvo virus until they are at least 20 weeks old.
For a Parvo vaccine to be effective:
+12 weeks of age: Vaccinate
+16 weeks of age: Booster
+20 weeks of age: Parvo vaccine fully absorbed and effective
The immunities the pups receive from their mother's colostrum actually interferes with the effectiveness of the Parvo vaccine given before 12 weeks of age.
The recommendation now is to limit a pup's exposure to unknown or under vaccinated dogs (or to places traveled by unknown or under vaccinated dogs) until the pup is over 20 weeks old. It is why many respectable doggie daycares will not accept dogs under 20 weeks of age.
Parvo can be found just about anywhere. It can be found at pet stores, public parks, walking trails, sidewalks and your neighbor's yard. It can be transferred from yard to yard by utility company meter readers, postal workers, or neighborhood kids. It can also come in on car tires and delivery vehicle tires.
Most often Parvo enters your home on people's shoes.
Before handling our puppies, I ask that everyone wash their hands. I wash linens used in the Puppy Room daily in bleach and a double rinse. I ask everyone to leave their shoes at the entry way into the Puppy Room.
Since I work in rescue, I step into a pan of bleach water before entering my home or backyard and wash my Rescue Tennis Shoes often in bleach.
******
From http://www.petfinder.com/ :Parvovirus (Parvoviral Enteritis or "Parvo," for short) is a virus causing severe infection in puppies and dogs.
It invades and destroys rapidly growing cells in the intestine, bone marrow and lymphoid tissue resulting in nausea, vomiting and severe hemorrhagic (bloody) diarrhea. The invasion of the bone marrow cells causes a decrease in the white blood cell count leading to increased susceptibility to bacterial infections and sometimes to a shock-like condition called endotoxemia. The disease can vary from mild to fatal if not properly treated.
Parvovirus is extremely contagious to other dogs. Infection is generally attributed to ingestion of material contaminated by dog feces and can occur when a dog smells or licks the ground. Direct contact with another dog is not necessary for infection. Parvovirus is shed in the feces of infected dogs for approximately two weeks after initial ingestion and can live in the environment for years. The virus is species specific and is not contagious to cat or humans.
Dogs at highest risk for infection are unvaccinated puppies or those who have not yet completed their vaccine series. It is most common in dogs less than 8 months old. Especially susceptible breeds include Doberman pinschers, Rottweilers, German shepherd, Staffordshire terriers, Black Labrador Retrievers, and dachshunds. Dogs of all ages can be infected, but puppies and younger dogs are most susceptible. Intact male dogs may also be susceptible for unknown reasons.
Unsanitary and/or overcrowded kennels may increase chance of infection and concurrent infection with parasites, other bacteria or viruses may also increase susceptibility to infection. Proper vaccination of your pet can best prevent the disease. Parvovirus is an acute and serious disease, not a chronic condition. Virtually all cases need proper diagnosis and hospitalization. If your pet is having active symptoms, it is important to see your veterinarian. Parvovirus can be fatal if not properly treated.
What to Watch For
Clinical signs generally are seen 3 to 14 days after exposure to the virus.
Signs may include:
+Depression
+Fever
+Loss of appetite (anorexia)
+Vomiting
+Diarrhea (often containing foul-smelling blood)
Diagnosis
Diagnosis is usually based on clinical signs. Diagnostic tests are needed to recognize parvovirus, and exclude other diseases.
Tests may include:
+Complete medical history and physical examination
+Testing the feces for the presence of the virus
+Blood tests and abdominal X-rays to determine the severity of the infection or exclude other causes of the symptoms
Preventative Care
Keep your dog away from fecal waste of other dogs when walking along neighborhood streets or parks.
If your dog leaves his own "deposit" be sure to remove it and dispose of it at home.You should also minimize contact of unvaccinated puppies with other dogs that may be sick or unvaccinated.
This should include avoiding areas where other sick pets may have been (parvo can live in the environment for 2 years). Your pet is most at risk until fully vaccinated (usually 20 to 24 weeks of age).
The virus is extremely resistant to many disinfectants. The recommendation for cleaning areas possibly contaminated with parvovirus include diluted bleach (diluted to 1 part bleach to 20 parts water) and quaternary ammonium disinfectants (such as Roccal-D, Parvosol, and others).
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Pups: Day 8-14
Feb 27 (Day 11)
Eyes starting to open. One eye opens up at a time with blue film.
Feb 26 (Day 10)
Some say puppies should double their birth weight by 10 days old. I'm a little concerned because this isn't the case with this litter. Maggie was very underweight when she arrived into rescue and she is still underweight.
The only other growth-guideline is that pups should gain from a half-ounce to an ounce in weight every 12 hours (for the first few days after birth). That's 1-2 ounces a day.
Feb 25 (Day 9)
MOM:
Eating 3 cups of dry + 1can wet Adult Food 3 times a day (Total=9 cups dry + 3 cans per day)
Snack - 2 tablespoons of plain yogurt with active yeast.
Drinking a lot of water.
Still has discharge.
She is sleeping away from her pups, and wants to be away from the pups and part of the rest of the family (people and resident dogs) more.
PUPS:
Ears - starting to see progress on opening
Legs - building strength
Weights - 1 pound, 6.7 ounces (smallest) 2 pounds, 3.6 ounces (largest)
*Per puppy behaviorist, puppies will be much more comfortable being picked up once their eyes are open. For now, gently stroke them while they remain on the ground in the whelping box, to slowly desensitize them to human touch.
Eyes starting to open. One eye opens up at a time with blue film.
Feb 26 (Day 10)
Some say puppies should double their birth weight by 10 days old. I'm a little concerned because this isn't the case with this litter. Maggie was very underweight when she arrived into rescue and she is still underweight.
The only other growth-guideline is that pups should gain from a half-ounce to an ounce in weight every 12 hours (for the first few days after birth). That's 1-2 ounces a day.
Feb 25 (Day 9)
MOM:
Eating 3 cups of dry + 1can wet Adult Food 3 times a day (Total=9 cups dry + 3 cans per day)
Snack - 2 tablespoons of plain yogurt with active yeast.
Drinking a lot of water.
Still has discharge.
She is sleeping away from her pups, and wants to be away from the pups and part of the rest of the family (people and resident dogs) more.
PUPS:
Ears - starting to see progress on opening
Legs - building strength
Weights - 1 pound, 6.7 ounces (smallest) 2 pounds, 3.6 ounces (largest)
*Per puppy behaviorist, puppies will be much more comfortable being picked up once their eyes are open. For now, gently stroke them while they remain on the ground in the whelping box, to slowly desensitize them to human touch.
Pups: Day 1-7
WEEKS 1 & 2
At birth, they are blind and deaf. They can't eliminate on their own, nor can they regulate their body heat.
While her newborn puppies spend 90 percent of their time sleeping, a mother's instincts tell her to keep them huddled together for warmth: A chill can kill them. Although the puppies can't see or hear, their senses of smell and touch guide them to mom's nipples. During the first few days, her milk will provide them with antibodies that will help them survive for 6 to 10 weeks. She also licks their tummies and genitals to help them urinate and defecate.
A tiny newborn's legs are so weak he can barely wriggle his way to the nearby nipple and the comfort of his siblings. During sleep, twitching movements, called activated sleep, help strengthen his legs. If the mother allows, the breeder or other main caretaker can begin to pick up each pup several times a day. This early, gentle human touch will help the dog bond with people later on.
****
Neonatal Period
Birth to 2 weeks
Puppies are born with eyes and ears closed, Their experiences are through touch and smell. They are able to sense heat, cold, and texture. They are totally dependent upon their mother for everything, even the stimulation of bowl and bladder function.
At birth, they are blind and deaf. They can't eliminate on their own, nor can they regulate their body heat.
While her newborn puppies spend 90 percent of their time sleeping, a mother's instincts tell her to keep them huddled together for warmth: A chill can kill them. Although the puppies can't see or hear, their senses of smell and touch guide them to mom's nipples. During the first few days, her milk will provide them with antibodies that will help them survive for 6 to 10 weeks. She also licks their tummies and genitals to help them urinate and defecate.
A tiny newborn's legs are so weak he can barely wriggle his way to the nearby nipple and the comfort of his siblings. During sleep, twitching movements, called activated sleep, help strengthen his legs. If the mother allows, the breeder or other main caretaker can begin to pick up each pup several times a day. This early, gentle human touch will help the dog bond with people later on.
****
Neonatal Period
Birth to 2 weeks
Puppies are born with eyes and ears closed, Their experiences are through touch and smell. They are able to sense heat, cold, and texture. They are totally dependent upon their mother for everything, even the stimulation of bowl and bladder function.
Delivery Day
Mom (18 months old) and her canine sister were picked up by animal control in a rural part of our state and brought to a local shelter. Their guardian went to the shelter to look for them. When he found out that Mom's sister couldn't be released right away because of an incident while they were on their travels, the owner told the shelter to keep both dogs.
The shelter called our Rescue and asked if we could take Mom into our system. Mom entered our foster sytsem (my home) on January 17, 2009. At her initial vet exam, she was found to be infected with heartworms.
Subsequently Mom was also found to be pregnant - only 10 days before she delivered.
On February 16, 2009 (President's Day), Mom delivered 9 healthy puppies - 7 black (2 girls, 5 boys), 2 yellow (1 girl, 1 boy).
Here are Puppy's Developmental Stages as described in Another Piece of the Puzzle: Puppy Development compiled by Pat Hasting and Erin Ann Rouse (editors):
Pre-Natal Period (before birth)
Neo-Natal Period (1-14 days)
Transitional Period (14-21 days)
Awareness or Identification Period (21-28 days)
Second Awareness/Identification Week (28-35 days)
Socialization Period (5-16 weeks)
Curiosity Period (5-7 weeks)
Behavioral Refinement Period (7-9 weeks)
Fear Imprint/Impact Period (8-11 weeks)
Environmental Awareness Period (9-12 weeks)
Seniority Classification Period (13-16 weeks)
Flight Instinct Period (4-8 months)
Second Fear Impact Period (6-14 months)
Maturity Period (1-4 years)
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)